Tasting Menus Gaining Popularity At NYC Eateries Amid COVID-19

Tasting menus are having a moment that’s being aided by the pandemic.

Once the domain of the most exclusive restaurants, elaborate preset courses have been going mainstream for a few years now. But the trend appears to be gaining speed as struggling restaurateurs look for more cost-effective ways to please customers who want to find experiences that will make dining out during a pandemic worth their while.

At the high end of this trend is Per Se, which rose to fame on its pricy tasting menu when it burst on the scene in 2004. Despite charging its prepandemic price of $355 per person in the midst of an economic downturn, the Columbus Circle restaurant was packed on its Oct. 15 reopening, according to chef and owner Thomas Keller. And reservations are “pretty full” through November, he said.

“People want to experience life like it was before COVID. We are all searching for that restorative nature,” said Keller, who served 76 diners on opening night in a room that seats 40 people at 25 percent capacity.

“It is wonderful to see people celebrating life and for us to be able to bring back staff and support the farmers and fishermen — and the city.”

Tasting menus, which offer a set number and order of courses for a set price often eaten over the course of many hours, provide theater at a time when Broadway is dark and people are hungry for experiences, explained restaurant consultant Donny Evans.